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以不规则波在缓变地形和缓变流场水域的折射-绕射理论以及风浪的成长、衰减理论为基础,得到近岸区不规则波成长模型。结合近岸波浪特性和海洋工程应用的实际情况,建立综合考虑海岸、折射、白浪、底摩擦、流、风和非线性作用诸因素的近岸不规则波数值计算模型。该模型具有二维波谱特性及实用性。文章力图使模式更合理地反映近岸波浪的传播、成长和衰减规律,而整个计算工作量则较小,可在微型电子计算机上得以实现。
Based on the refraction-diffraction theory of irregular waves in the slowly changing terrain and the slowly changing water field, and the growth and decay theory of wind waves, the model of irregular wave growth in the coastal area was obtained. Combining the characteristics of the coastal wave and the offshore engineering application, a numerical model for calculating the coastal irregular wave considering the factors of coast, refraction, white water, bottom friction, flow, wind and nonlinearity is established. The model has two-dimensional spectral characteristics and practicality. This paper attempts to make the model more reasonable to reflect the wave propagation, growth and attenuation law of the nearshore, and the whole computational workload is smaller, which can be realized on the micro-computer.