二十六年前,只有五年登山实践的中国登山队在苏联方面不参加联合攀珠穆朗玛峰活动之后,毅然决定独家攀登。从北坡攀珠峰的开路先锋是英国人。从1921年到1953年,英国先后从东北山脊向珠峰发起过8次冲击,从其它线路2次攀登,但都失败了。著名登山家玛珞里和欧文等在冲上8500米后再也没有回来,只给人留下了不少传奇性的故事。英国人曾经把8700米处的“第 Twenty-six years ago, only five years of mountaineering practices in the Chinese mountaineering team in the Soviet Union did not participate in the joint climb Mount Everest activities, decided to exclusive climbing. Pioneers of Mount Everest from the North Pole are British. From 1921 to 1953, the United Kingdom launched eight attacks on Mount Everest from northeast ridge and two climbs from other routes, all failing. The famous mountaineers Marlow and Owen did not come back after they rushed to 8500 meters, leaving only a lot of legendary stories. The British had 8700 meters at the "first