Global Catwalk

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  A Chinese debutante attracted most of the limelight at the annual victoria’s secret Fashion show in new York in november 2011. he sui, a newcomer to the modeling world, was the focus of many photographers as the dark haired beauty walked down the runway in a mermaid inspired ensemble.
  he was followed by another Chinese supermodel Liu Wen onto the stage. Liu made history at victoria’s secret in 2009, becoming the first“Asian Angel” to take part in the company’s lingerie event.
  The growing profile of Chinese models in the fashion world is creating a stir. The just-concluded 2012 new York, London, Milan and Paris spring/summer fashion weeks saw a host of established Chinese faces as well as fresh models from China.
  “We are making history everyday,” said Liu, who is widely considered to be among the country’s top models.
  White european models have dominated the runways and magazines of the high-end fashion industry for decades. But as China becomes an increasingly important market for luxury goods, major fashion houses have begun to pay more attention to Chinese models.
  “in the past, Chinese and other Asian models were invited to participate in thematic shows with oriental elements. But today, more brands employ Chinese models as their global ambassadors,” said Yao Ge, General Manager of modeling agency China Bentley Culture Development Co. Ltd.
  Going global
  Modeling as a profession has become established in China in the past 20 years. Chinese models have stormed the world stage from 2009 to 2011.
  Du Juan was China’s first supermodel. The world’s fashion stage opened up to Du when she became the first Asian cover girl of Vogue magazine in 2006. The next year, she appeared in the spring/summer shows of the biggest names in fashion, including Louis vuitton, YsL, Chanel, valentino and Givenchy. she became the first Asian model to be featured in Time magazine in 2007, leaving the Chinese fashion media slack-jawed.
  Liu Wen, who made her name as the first Asian victoria’s secret model, continued to push boundaries for Asian models. Liu was named the global spokesperson for estée Lauder in 2010. Best known for her bright smile and sculpted, diamond-shaped cheekbones, the 179-cm supermodel was the first Asian face recruited by the American beauty products powerhouse.
  Liu attributes everything to fate, but her success is more than a matter of chance.
  Liu is extremely hard working. The Chinese beauty began her modeling career in 2005 when she entered a local Chinese modeling contest to win a laptop. Following that success, she appeared in a number of advertising campaigns, runway shows and magazine editorial pages. her success was such that the Chinese media nicknamed her Fashion show Queen.
  The 23-year-old is now ranked no.6 on the World’s Top 50 supermodels list compiled by Models.com, the highest ranking ever for an Asian model.
  Another leading light in the Chinese modeling world, the 27-yearold emma Pei, first appeared at the Paris Fashion Week in 2007. At the Christian Dior haute Couture spring/summer fashion show in 2008, fashion designer John Galliano took Pei’s hand, walked down the catwalk, and announced that she was his favorite model.
  in addition to these names, dozens of other Chinese models are now making their present felt in the Western fashion world.
  


  


  Market strategy
  “All these models are aligned with traditional ideals of Oriental beauty -oval faces, wafer-thin body shapes and a demure aura. This makes them particularly fascinating on the catwalk,” said Yao.
  What makes these models even more competitive than their predecessors is the internationally-oriented education they have received, said a modeling industry insider. Most of China’s leading models grew up in wealthy families and have no difficulty meeting the professional standards set by the Western fashion circuit.
  however, despite the inroads being made by Chinese models, their success remains a tender shoot of diversity in an industry that has always been dominated by white models.
  The influx of oriental models into haute couture is seen as a result of the growing spending power of Chinese consumers. sensing an opportunity to cash in on the Chinese market, major design houses have begun featuring a handful of Chinese models in fashion weeks as a bid to boost their sales in China.
  According to state media reports, Chinese models made 296 appearances for major design houses this year.
  China’s market for luxury goods is expected to grow by 20 percent annually for the next 10 years, said a 2010 report compiled by the China Market Research Group (CMR), a shanghai-based consulting company.
  The size and promise of the Chinese market is changing perceptions in Western countries. “Luxury firms choose Chinese faces to represent them, to create emotional intimacy between their products and the Chinese consumers they are targeting,” said shaun Rein, Managing Director of CMR.
  Integration
  As a celebration of their sixth anniversary, Vogue China created a foldout cover starring six of China’s models of the moment, including Du Juan, he sui, sun Feifei, Liu Wen, Xi Ming and shu Pei, for its september issue.
  While fashion publications in China have been enthusiastic about the success of these trailblazers, experts warned that these young models are still likely to face many challenges.
  “Chinese models are always handicapped by their language skills. Most of them have never received any systematic language training,” said Li Xiaobai, Chairman of the China new silk Road Models Organization, China’s first and largest modeling agency.
  When Liu Wen made her way into the victoria’s secret show in 2010, she introduced herself in english. Though not fluent, she won much praise for her efforts.
  “i used to be afraid of speaking english while being interviewed,” she said. “But being able to communicate with others in english makes me feel more confident about myself now.”
  Mo Wandan, another Chinese model, takes a translator wherever she goes. “My Western workmates all think i am super rich, but that is the only way i can communicate with others,” Mo said.
  Another obstacle is that successful Chinese models today all represent what Westerners call the “oriental look.”
  “They lack versatility,” said Yi Lingna, editor in Chief of fashion website onlylady.com. she also pointed out that there are few Chinese male models on the world stage.
  “The lack of world-class Chinese clothing brands also prevents more Chinese models from entering the international fashion circuit,” said Li. in France, many models are promoted by Pierre Cardin, one of the world’s major clothing brands, onto the world fashion stage every year.
  Modeling agencies are confronting the problem of oversupply as the number of Chinese models has grown. “After all, the exotic charm of Chinese models is still used as the icing on the cake in the fashion world,”said Yao.
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