美食,可以美在心里

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  初秋时,刘芳菲飞到摩洛哥采风,在这沙漠与海洋并存的神秘国度开启了一段探索之旅。沉迷于当地人文和艺术的同时,“美食”也给她的旅行增添了别样的色彩。在本期的“餐饮”栏目,我们邀请刘芳菲作为特约撰稿人,讲述她在卡萨布兰卡四季酒店和Bleu餐厅的不期而遇。
  In the early autumn, Liu Fangfei flew to Morocco to embark on a journey of exploration in this mysterious country where the desert and the oceans meet. While immersed in the local culture and art, "Cuisine" also added a different kind of color to her trip. In this issue of "Dining", we invited Liu Fangfei as our contributor to share with us her chance encounter at the Four Seasons Hotel Casablanca in Bleu restaurant.
  若不是酒店熱情邀请,我们肯定会和这番美味擦肩
  If not for a warm invitation from the hotel, we will certainly pass this gourmet by...
  以经验之谈,每去一个新地方旅行,我一般不会选择在入住的酒店用餐。我更希望自己在当地的美食餐厅用餐,更多地接触当地人和当地文化。我会询问当地老餮或查阅旅行手册,找既有本地特色又好吃的馆子来试。此次摩洛哥之行,我和旅伴们同样做了功课,而以往旅行的探吃经验,这一次似乎并没有发挥作用。
  查阅了一些餐厅信息并参考了酒店前台的建议后,我们试了几家当地口碑不错的餐厅,其中包括一家被公认为本地前两位的法餐厅,结果却都差强人意。连番几次下来,一直没有遇到期待中的美味,眼看就要离开卡萨布兰卡奔赴下一个旅程,心中未免有些遗憾。
  对摩洛哥美食的探索本打算就此放弃,却意外受到《酒店精品》杂志和卡萨布兰卡四季酒店的邀请,款待我们在酒店西餐厅Bleu用餐。没想到,本是一次不抱希望的应邀晚餐,却成为这次旅行让我念念不忘的美好回忆。
  From experience, when traveling to a new place, I generally do not choose to dine at the hotel where I live. I usually prefer to dine in the local gourmet restaurants for more exposure to locals and local cultures. I will ask the local foodies or check the travel guidebook to find good local restaurants. This trip to Morocco, me and my friends did the same homework, but our past travel experience does not seem to work this time.
  After reviewing some of the restaurant information and referring to the hotel's front desk advice, we tried several local restaurants of reputation, including one that was recognized as the top two local French restaurants, however, all with unsatisfactory results. The experience repeated several times, we still have not found our ideal taste. Soon we are leaving Casablanca for the next journey, we felt somewhat at loss.
  As we were giving up discovering Moroccan delicacies, an unexpected invitation came from Hotel Elite and Four Seasons Hotel Casablanca to entertain us at Bleu, the hotel restaurant. Originally an unexpected invitation has turned out to be our unforgettable memories.
  北京话“靠谱”用在Bleu餐厅再合适不过
  Beijing dialect 'Kao-Pu(Trustworthy)' is most appropriately used for Bleu restaurant...
  一进Bleu餐厅,首先映入眼帘的是简洁明亮的开放式厨房。我们入座的时间对当地人来说较早,餐厅客人不多,主厨正在料理台后有条不紊地为我们备餐。和着轻柔的音乐,透过大片落地窗欣赏日落时分的海景,还没上菜,已经尝到了Bleu餐厅一点点“蓝”的味道。
  等候不多时,前菜上桌。蟹肉卷一入口便着实让我惊艳,用北京话说,那就是“靠谱”。只第一口,主厨的功力便可见一斑。连续几日失败的尝试后,一盘小小的前菜,让我们开始对这次计划外的晚餐有了期待。   果然,接下來的出品让人惊喜连连。主菜烤法国蓝龙虾风味十足,火烤的焦香与罗勒黄油和谐地融入龙虾肉,将卡萨布兰卡的海边异域风情完美呈现在盘中。另一道让我欲罢不能的菜,则是像极了天津包子的布拉塔芝士搭配香煎黄鳍金枪鱼与芝麻菜沙拉。切开“包子”送入口中,软糯浓郁,这道菜把奶酪的鲜香放大到了极致。
  味蕾终于得到满足,从前菜到主菜再到最后的甜品,几乎每道菜都合心合意。晚餐期间,Bleu餐厅行政主厨 Guillaume Blanchard亲自过来与我们交流。Guillaume出生于法国皮卡第地区的小镇,师从厨界大师阿兰·杜卡斯,不久前刚在Bleu上任,年纪轻轻已经掌握高超的厨艺技巧,并有着独特的烹饪理念和饱满的热情。他主张将本地食材发挥至最大化,让食客能在Bleu品尝到卡萨布兰卡独有的风味。我们的晚餐主题为“海和海岸线”,就是这一创作理念的体现。
  不知不觉两个半小时过去,向远处望去,一轮明月下波涛拍岸。此情此景,让我想起10年前在马尔代夫度假的时光。彼时,也是在四季酒店,也是这样的愉快和惬意。
  美食,不仅美好在舌尖味蕾,它也会美在人的心里,成为记忆中的档案。在异国、在他乡,被人随时回味。
  Once inside the Bleu restaurant, the first and foremost impression is the bright, open kitchen. We came at the earlier time than the locals, so there were not many guests, and the chef was preparing for our table. Gentle music playing together with the sunset sea view through the large windows, we have already tasted a little "blue" flavor of Bleu restaurant before being served.
  Soon the appetizer was served on the table. The taste of crab roll really surprised me, in Beijing saying, it would be "Kao-pu." The first bite showed the true skills of the chef. After a few days of unsuccessful attempts, a small plate of appetizer fired our passion for this unplanned dinner.
  Indeed, the following dishes surprised us again and again. Main course Grilled French blue lobster was most flavorful, with roasted fragrance and basil butter blended harmoniously into the lobster meat, showing a perfect seaside view of Casablanca. Another dish that I can not have enough of was Burrata cheese with fried yellowfin tuna and arugula salad, reminding me of the Tianjin Buns. Once cut open and delivered, the cheese "buns" melted in the mouth with its soft and rich glutinous flavor, this dish certainly magnified the cheese's fragrance to the maximum.
  Our taste buds were finally satisfied, from the appetizers, the main courses to the final dessert, we loved them all. During dinner, Guillaume Blanchard, Executive Chef of Bleu, came personally to greet us. Born in the small town of Picardie, France and studied under the master of the kitchen, Alain Ducasse, Guillaume recently took up his position at Bleu. He has mastered superb culinary skills and unique cooking concepts with full enthusiasm. He advocates maximizing local ingredients so that diners can taste Casablanca's unique flavor at Bleu. The theme of our dinner, "Sea and Shoreline," is an expression of this creative concept.
  Soon, two and a half hours went past, I looked into the distance, the scene of the moonlighted waves reminded me of my Maldives holiday 10 years ago. That time, I also stayed in the Four Seasons Hotel, with the same pleasant and cozy atmosphere.
  The sweet beauty of the food will not only stay on the taste buds, but also in the heart, turning it all into a treasured memory. Wherever you travel, the aftertaste will stay with you for dear reminisce.
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