从前上海人有吃夜宵的习惯,1893年池志徵《沪游梦影》中说晚清时上海广东馆子有夜宵,是因为广东人日食两餐,所以喜欢夜里再吃点夜宵填填饥。冬天广东人的“打边炉”(有点像今天的火锅)弄点鱼片、鱼圆、笋片、菜蔬,三五好友围炉边吃边聊,亦是一种消遣。当时还有堂倌送夜宵上门的。我的老师苏州人郑逸梅先生说,下雪天的傍晚,老上海街口有苏州人卖羊肉的店家,支着一口大铁锅热气腾腾煮着 In the past, people in Shanghai had the habit of eating supper. In 1893, Chi Chih-chung Chih-hui dreamed of having a supper in Guangdong during the late Qing period. They had supper because Cantonese consumed two meals a day, so they like to eat nocturnal sundaes at night. Winter Cantonese “edge furnace ” (a bit like today’s hot pot) get some fish, fish balls, bamboo shoots, vegetables, 35 friends around the hearth to eat, is also a pastime. At that time, there was a hall to send supper to you. Mr. Zheng Yimei, my teacher from Suzhou, said that in the evening of the snowy day, there was a store selling mutton in Suzhou, Shanghai.