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维族小花帽
居住在新疆天山南北的维吾尔族人,无论男女老幼,都喜欢戴小花帽,这是他们的传统习惯。小花帽不但实用,而且是一种具有装饰美感的工艺品。每逢节日、婚礼或歌舞盛会,人们都要挑选心爱的小花帽打扮自己。
维族人称小花帽为“朵巴”。在巴扎(集市)上的朵巴市场,小花帽琳琅满目,美不胜收。
维族小花帽根据工艺制作水平和用料的不同,有繁简贵廉之分,就其制做方法和工艺特点可分为:丝线平绣、丝线结绣、串珠片绣、格子架绣、盘金银绣、十字花绣、钩花刺绣、扎绒刺绣以及综合绣等。绝大部分小花帽是将手工绣好的四爿,以顶为中心缝合起来,套在木模上成型,最后镶上黑绒布边,成为立体的。偶尔有五爿组成的小花帽,其与四爿花帽异曲同工。
维族小花帽特点是图案精美、花纹繁多、色彩绚丽:图案采用新疆花卉、果实等形象,组合成各种几何图形,点缀多种装饰品,外观紧凑协调,生动逼真;花纹有大地散花纹样、单独纹祥、组合纹样、巴旦姆纹样、十字对称纹样等多种,无不纤巧精美,各具姿色;色彩一般用黑白两色,用彩色的,以鲜艳夺目为目标。另外,妇女花帽上会点缀宝石、玛瑙、翡翠、珊瑚、琥珀、精玉等。
天山南北地域辽阔,维族小花帽形式多样,各具特色。巴旦姆花帽,用巴旦姆杏核变形图案,并添加花纹;纹样丰富多样,多为黑底白花,庄重、古朴、大方,男性老幼都喜欢戴这种花帽。塔什干花帽,现在是对格刺绣几何形纹花帽的通称,一般色彩对比强烈,火红闪耀如盛开的花丛,深受广大男女青年的喜爱。格来木花帽,即扎绒花帽,面料似地毯绒面,绣法费工,朵巴市场比较少见,青年男女普遍追求。奇曼花帽,以米字为骨架,花、枝、叶交错,纹样以枝干连结或线条分隔,构成多个正反三角、菱形,以知识分子戴的为多。曼波尔花帽,顶和边绣四组长方形或圆形纹样,男女老幼所戴,最常见。翟尔花帽,即金银线盘绣花帽,所绣的花多是立体的,在阳光下熠熠闪耀,给人以华贵端庄之感,深受姑娘、妇女喜爱。玛力江花帽,用珍珠和亮片串连成图案,高雅华贵,受到文化艺术界女性的青睐,姑娘和小孩也常戴。金片花帽,采用压、镂花纹,以金片点缀装饰,光亮闪烁,富丽堂皇,旧时妇女戴它显示贵重,现在基本见不到。吐鲁番花帽,以色彩艳丽著称,有四组红花,绿底,花大底空小,恍如盛开的花海,镶黑色绒布边;它的华美首屈一指,只有这一地区的老年人还戴着。伊犁花帽,五爿组成,扁浅圆巧,色彩柔和,花纹纤细而简练,突出线条的流动感,具有素雅、大方的优点,男女都流行。库车花帽,采用盘金与串珠两种技术,于帽上装以金银片与彩珠,又以丝线平绣朵朵鲜花,与深色底料搭配,饰纹突起,古色古香。夏帕克花帽,瓜皮便帽,有时冬季作为衬帽,多为素面,有些在帽口有水纹边,流行较广。
此外,尚有阿克多帕,即白色帽,帽上有白色线扎花纹,穆斯林做礼拜时所戴;曼切斯特多帕,扎纹紫红绒、黑边小圆帽;赛里甫西吐玛克,即高筒花帽;塔里拜克,扣碗形小帽等。在于田、民丰、策勒、且末一带,还盛行着一种状似杯碟,直径不足十厘米,纯属装饰性的小花帽。当地的中老年妇女,喜欢把这种小花帽用针别在盖头的披巾上,看上去就像一枝斜插的花朵。
精于针线的维族妇女都会绣制小花帽,图案纹样的构思则没有专门的设计,而是靠世代口口相传的几百种腹稿。维族小花帽属于精美的工艺品,常挂在墙上作为家庭装饰品,或作为馈赠礼物。姑娘常把亲手绣制的小花帽送给小伙子,作为表达爱情的信物。
维族小花帽是富有特色的象征。维族人民勤劳勇敢,性格豪迈,能歌善舞,他们的服饰形式清晰,图饰多样,色彩鲜明,工艺精湛。一顶花帽虽小,但从中能窥见一个民族文化的传承性与习俗的地域性。
维族姑娘的辫子
维吾尔族姑娘的美出了名,辫子多,辫子长,两个眼睛真漂亮。独特而又优美的辫子发式为她们增添了许多姿色。
维族妇女喜欢长辫子,从3岁开始留发。小女孩子都梳有许多条小辫子,一般要梳成单数,最少五条,然后七条、九条、十一条地往上梳,最多梳到四十一条。单数被维族人认为是吉祥的数字。
辫子多,梳起来费事,但这也是维族姑娘们一件极开心的事。每隔十天半月或者更长时间,几个要好的姑娘就会相约在一起,在自家葡萄棚架下席地铺一块毡毯梳洗辫子。她们将几天前就掺入自制的发胶“伊力木”(沙枣树果胶)并已经溶解的水端来,然后围坐在毡毯上,用梳子或手蘸上“伊力木”水涂在洗净的头发上,接着互相梳小辫子,边梳理边嬉闹,开心极了。维族姑娘的辫子数是根据头发的多少来定的,当然梳得越多越漂亮。为了能多梳辫子,她们对头发十分爱惜,经常梳洗,保持清洁。每梳完一次辫子,还要再涂上“伊力木”,等干后,头发变得硬而明亮。梳好的小辫子,十几天不用梳也不乱。这种定型发胶既便宜,效果又好,同时它还能保护头发和刺激头发的生长。维族姑娘出门或是走亲戚,都要在小辫子上抹上这种“发胶”,使小辫子变得光光亮亮、黑黑黝黝,看起来更加楚楚动人。
维族姑娘为什么小辫子多有好些说法,其中一个传说别样优美。在茫茫大漠深处,有一个王国。老国王希望儿子到外面学点本领。老二从皑皑雪峰下的盈盈湖泊边,带回一位可以化身天鹅的可爱姑娘,她头上梳着很多小辫子,随身姿摇摆,闪闪发亮,漂亮极了。姑娘有一张毯子,上面绣着迷人的图画:青青的山,蓝蓝的水,茂密的果林,宽广的牧地和农田……后来,姑娘让毯子徐徐飞上天空,闪出无数彩色斑点,飘飘扬扬落在地面上。顿时,沙漠变成绿洲,戈壁变成果园。从那以后,人们为了感谢姑娘,就照她的打扮,给小女孩们一岁梳一个小辫子。这个传说反映出维族姑娘把小辫子作为美和幸福的象征,所以极为普遍地梳扎,因为她们都希望像仙女那样美丽和善良。
在中国五十六个民族的大家庭中,新疆维族姑娘的相貌美是让人翘大拇指的,辫子美更是让人赞不绝口的。维族姑娘有一种欧亚地区人的古典美,鹅蛋形的脸、大而微深的眼睛、挺拔的鼻子、樱桃般的小嘴,加之优美的身体曲线,使得人们对维族姑娘产生了一种天生丽质的感觉。维族姑娘的辫子具有黑、粗、亮的特点,有的辫子长到齐腰长,发尖也几乎没有分岔的现象。到了秋天,维族姑娘苗条的体形、齐腰的长发,再搭配上一件雪白的高领毛衣、一袭桃红色的长裙和一双黑亮的长筒皮靴,走在街市上,随着腰肢的摆动,长辫子的发梢在姑娘的翘翘的臀部翩然起舞,那是一道亮丽的城市风景线。 维族姑娘性格热情大方、开朗活泼,热爱歌舞艺术,追求欢乐自由,她们在美化自己的生活中,妆饰发型显得无比的高原般奔放、冰川般流畅、长风般洒脱、阳光般恣意。
(本文照片由作者提供)
Uyghur Hats and Braids
By Shen Haibin
In Xinjiang, an autonomous region in northwestern China, Uyghur people, both old and young, men and women, like to wear four- or five-angled embroidered hat all year round. These hats have become a symbol of the Uyghur people.
The Uyghur hats, locally known as “dopa”, are exquisite handicraft articles. A visit to the dopa section of any bazaar in Xinjiang would reveal an amazing variety of hats in rainbow colors and fabulous designs.
All the Uyghur hats feature embroidery and embroidery comes in nine major types. Embroidery is done from the simple to the rococo to the royally splendid. Design also comes in a variety: flowers and fruits arranged and decorated in amazing arrays and matrixes. More often than not, hats for women are finely festooned with gemstones such as agate, emerald, coral, amber and jade. The majority of these hats are composed of four separate pieces sewn together after the embroidery is done. Rare are five-angled hats. Many hats are in two essential colors: white embroidery on a black background. Colorful hats display eye-catching tints.
The chief varieties of Uyghur hats are Badam hats, Tashigan and Gelem hats, Qiman hats, Zir hats, and Marjan hats. Badam hats display variations of the apricot pit design, adorned with various patterns. Most of Badam hats feature embroidery in white on the black hat. These hats are solemn, simple, and in good taste. They are for males of all ages. Tashigan hats feature a symmetric geometric pattern with color in sharp contrast. The pattern in such eye-catching colors looks like red flowers in luxurious bloom. These hats are for young men and young women. Intellectuals prefer Qiman hats. Zir hats, featuring embroidery in golden and silver threads, display relief flowers and glow graciously in sunshine. Women like Zir hats. Marjan hats display pearls and spangles.
Uyghur women are excellent hat makers. It is said that there are no books of embroidery and patterns and that hundreds of patterns pass on from one generation of hat makers to another. Uyghur hats are not all for wearing. Some are articles for home decoration.
Braids
In China, Uyghur girls are famed for their beauty. They look exotically beautiful. They are also famed for their long, slender braids. Uyghur girls start having their hair braided when they are toddlers. At three, a baby girl may have her hair braided exquisitely into tiny braids. Usually, plaits are in an odd number. A girl may have 5 plaits, or 7 or 9. The biggest number is 41.
It is time-consuming to have braids made, but it is a joy to have a few best girl friends together and have an intimate time braiding. They make braids at regular intervals: for example, every ten days or fifteen days. Braiding is like a ritual. Before girls sit down on a felt carpet to make braids, they prepare a solution with homemade hair gel. When a braid is done, hair gel is applied. The hair gel makes the braids look shiny and feels a little bit hard. With the braids made, a girl does not need to brush hair again for another ten days or more. The braids will look pretty for a long while. How many braids a girl can have depends usually upon how much hair she has. The more hair a girl has, the more braids she can wear. Many women wear their braids long. In order to have long, thick, and beautiful braids, Uyghur girls learn to take great care of their hair.
居住在新疆天山南北的维吾尔族人,无论男女老幼,都喜欢戴小花帽,这是他们的传统习惯。小花帽不但实用,而且是一种具有装饰美感的工艺品。每逢节日、婚礼或歌舞盛会,人们都要挑选心爱的小花帽打扮自己。
维族人称小花帽为“朵巴”。在巴扎(集市)上的朵巴市场,小花帽琳琅满目,美不胜收。
维族小花帽根据工艺制作水平和用料的不同,有繁简贵廉之分,就其制做方法和工艺特点可分为:丝线平绣、丝线结绣、串珠片绣、格子架绣、盘金银绣、十字花绣、钩花刺绣、扎绒刺绣以及综合绣等。绝大部分小花帽是将手工绣好的四爿,以顶为中心缝合起来,套在木模上成型,最后镶上黑绒布边,成为立体的。偶尔有五爿组成的小花帽,其与四爿花帽异曲同工。
维族小花帽特点是图案精美、花纹繁多、色彩绚丽:图案采用新疆花卉、果实等形象,组合成各种几何图形,点缀多种装饰品,外观紧凑协调,生动逼真;花纹有大地散花纹样、单独纹祥、组合纹样、巴旦姆纹样、十字对称纹样等多种,无不纤巧精美,各具姿色;色彩一般用黑白两色,用彩色的,以鲜艳夺目为目标。另外,妇女花帽上会点缀宝石、玛瑙、翡翠、珊瑚、琥珀、精玉等。
天山南北地域辽阔,维族小花帽形式多样,各具特色。巴旦姆花帽,用巴旦姆杏核变形图案,并添加花纹;纹样丰富多样,多为黑底白花,庄重、古朴、大方,男性老幼都喜欢戴这种花帽。塔什干花帽,现在是对格刺绣几何形纹花帽的通称,一般色彩对比强烈,火红闪耀如盛开的花丛,深受广大男女青年的喜爱。格来木花帽,即扎绒花帽,面料似地毯绒面,绣法费工,朵巴市场比较少见,青年男女普遍追求。奇曼花帽,以米字为骨架,花、枝、叶交错,纹样以枝干连结或线条分隔,构成多个正反三角、菱形,以知识分子戴的为多。曼波尔花帽,顶和边绣四组长方形或圆形纹样,男女老幼所戴,最常见。翟尔花帽,即金银线盘绣花帽,所绣的花多是立体的,在阳光下熠熠闪耀,给人以华贵端庄之感,深受姑娘、妇女喜爱。玛力江花帽,用珍珠和亮片串连成图案,高雅华贵,受到文化艺术界女性的青睐,姑娘和小孩也常戴。金片花帽,采用压、镂花纹,以金片点缀装饰,光亮闪烁,富丽堂皇,旧时妇女戴它显示贵重,现在基本见不到。吐鲁番花帽,以色彩艳丽著称,有四组红花,绿底,花大底空小,恍如盛开的花海,镶黑色绒布边;它的华美首屈一指,只有这一地区的老年人还戴着。伊犁花帽,五爿组成,扁浅圆巧,色彩柔和,花纹纤细而简练,突出线条的流动感,具有素雅、大方的优点,男女都流行。库车花帽,采用盘金与串珠两种技术,于帽上装以金银片与彩珠,又以丝线平绣朵朵鲜花,与深色底料搭配,饰纹突起,古色古香。夏帕克花帽,瓜皮便帽,有时冬季作为衬帽,多为素面,有些在帽口有水纹边,流行较广。
此外,尚有阿克多帕,即白色帽,帽上有白色线扎花纹,穆斯林做礼拜时所戴;曼切斯特多帕,扎纹紫红绒、黑边小圆帽;赛里甫西吐玛克,即高筒花帽;塔里拜克,扣碗形小帽等。在于田、民丰、策勒、且末一带,还盛行着一种状似杯碟,直径不足十厘米,纯属装饰性的小花帽。当地的中老年妇女,喜欢把这种小花帽用针别在盖头的披巾上,看上去就像一枝斜插的花朵。
精于针线的维族妇女都会绣制小花帽,图案纹样的构思则没有专门的设计,而是靠世代口口相传的几百种腹稿。维族小花帽属于精美的工艺品,常挂在墙上作为家庭装饰品,或作为馈赠礼物。姑娘常把亲手绣制的小花帽送给小伙子,作为表达爱情的信物。
维族小花帽是富有特色的象征。维族人民勤劳勇敢,性格豪迈,能歌善舞,他们的服饰形式清晰,图饰多样,色彩鲜明,工艺精湛。一顶花帽虽小,但从中能窥见一个民族文化的传承性与习俗的地域性。
维族姑娘的辫子
维吾尔族姑娘的美出了名,辫子多,辫子长,两个眼睛真漂亮。独特而又优美的辫子发式为她们增添了许多姿色。
维族妇女喜欢长辫子,从3岁开始留发。小女孩子都梳有许多条小辫子,一般要梳成单数,最少五条,然后七条、九条、十一条地往上梳,最多梳到四十一条。单数被维族人认为是吉祥的数字。
辫子多,梳起来费事,但这也是维族姑娘们一件极开心的事。每隔十天半月或者更长时间,几个要好的姑娘就会相约在一起,在自家葡萄棚架下席地铺一块毡毯梳洗辫子。她们将几天前就掺入自制的发胶“伊力木”(沙枣树果胶)并已经溶解的水端来,然后围坐在毡毯上,用梳子或手蘸上“伊力木”水涂在洗净的头发上,接着互相梳小辫子,边梳理边嬉闹,开心极了。维族姑娘的辫子数是根据头发的多少来定的,当然梳得越多越漂亮。为了能多梳辫子,她们对头发十分爱惜,经常梳洗,保持清洁。每梳完一次辫子,还要再涂上“伊力木”,等干后,头发变得硬而明亮。梳好的小辫子,十几天不用梳也不乱。这种定型发胶既便宜,效果又好,同时它还能保护头发和刺激头发的生长。维族姑娘出门或是走亲戚,都要在小辫子上抹上这种“发胶”,使小辫子变得光光亮亮、黑黑黝黝,看起来更加楚楚动人。
维族姑娘为什么小辫子多有好些说法,其中一个传说别样优美。在茫茫大漠深处,有一个王国。老国王希望儿子到外面学点本领。老二从皑皑雪峰下的盈盈湖泊边,带回一位可以化身天鹅的可爱姑娘,她头上梳着很多小辫子,随身姿摇摆,闪闪发亮,漂亮极了。姑娘有一张毯子,上面绣着迷人的图画:青青的山,蓝蓝的水,茂密的果林,宽广的牧地和农田……后来,姑娘让毯子徐徐飞上天空,闪出无数彩色斑点,飘飘扬扬落在地面上。顿时,沙漠变成绿洲,戈壁变成果园。从那以后,人们为了感谢姑娘,就照她的打扮,给小女孩们一岁梳一个小辫子。这个传说反映出维族姑娘把小辫子作为美和幸福的象征,所以极为普遍地梳扎,因为她们都希望像仙女那样美丽和善良。
在中国五十六个民族的大家庭中,新疆维族姑娘的相貌美是让人翘大拇指的,辫子美更是让人赞不绝口的。维族姑娘有一种欧亚地区人的古典美,鹅蛋形的脸、大而微深的眼睛、挺拔的鼻子、樱桃般的小嘴,加之优美的身体曲线,使得人们对维族姑娘产生了一种天生丽质的感觉。维族姑娘的辫子具有黑、粗、亮的特点,有的辫子长到齐腰长,发尖也几乎没有分岔的现象。到了秋天,维族姑娘苗条的体形、齐腰的长发,再搭配上一件雪白的高领毛衣、一袭桃红色的长裙和一双黑亮的长筒皮靴,走在街市上,随着腰肢的摆动,长辫子的发梢在姑娘的翘翘的臀部翩然起舞,那是一道亮丽的城市风景线。 维族姑娘性格热情大方、开朗活泼,热爱歌舞艺术,追求欢乐自由,她们在美化自己的生活中,妆饰发型显得无比的高原般奔放、冰川般流畅、长风般洒脱、阳光般恣意。
(本文照片由作者提供)
Uyghur Hats and Braids
By Shen Haibin
In Xinjiang, an autonomous region in northwestern China, Uyghur people, both old and young, men and women, like to wear four- or five-angled embroidered hat all year round. These hats have become a symbol of the Uyghur people.
The Uyghur hats, locally known as “dopa”, are exquisite handicraft articles. A visit to the dopa section of any bazaar in Xinjiang would reveal an amazing variety of hats in rainbow colors and fabulous designs.
All the Uyghur hats feature embroidery and embroidery comes in nine major types. Embroidery is done from the simple to the rococo to the royally splendid. Design also comes in a variety: flowers and fruits arranged and decorated in amazing arrays and matrixes. More often than not, hats for women are finely festooned with gemstones such as agate, emerald, coral, amber and jade. The majority of these hats are composed of four separate pieces sewn together after the embroidery is done. Rare are five-angled hats. Many hats are in two essential colors: white embroidery on a black background. Colorful hats display eye-catching tints.
The chief varieties of Uyghur hats are Badam hats, Tashigan and Gelem hats, Qiman hats, Zir hats, and Marjan hats. Badam hats display variations of the apricot pit design, adorned with various patterns. Most of Badam hats feature embroidery in white on the black hat. These hats are solemn, simple, and in good taste. They are for males of all ages. Tashigan hats feature a symmetric geometric pattern with color in sharp contrast. The pattern in such eye-catching colors looks like red flowers in luxurious bloom. These hats are for young men and young women. Intellectuals prefer Qiman hats. Zir hats, featuring embroidery in golden and silver threads, display relief flowers and glow graciously in sunshine. Women like Zir hats. Marjan hats display pearls and spangles.
Uyghur women are excellent hat makers. It is said that there are no books of embroidery and patterns and that hundreds of patterns pass on from one generation of hat makers to another. Uyghur hats are not all for wearing. Some are articles for home decoration.
Braids
In China, Uyghur girls are famed for their beauty. They look exotically beautiful. They are also famed for their long, slender braids. Uyghur girls start having their hair braided when they are toddlers. At three, a baby girl may have her hair braided exquisitely into tiny braids. Usually, plaits are in an odd number. A girl may have 5 plaits, or 7 or 9. The biggest number is 41.
It is time-consuming to have braids made, but it is a joy to have a few best girl friends together and have an intimate time braiding. They make braids at regular intervals: for example, every ten days or fifteen days. Braiding is like a ritual. Before girls sit down on a felt carpet to make braids, they prepare a solution with homemade hair gel. When a braid is done, hair gel is applied. The hair gel makes the braids look shiny and feels a little bit hard. With the braids made, a girl does not need to brush hair again for another ten days or more. The braids will look pretty for a long while. How many braids a girl can have depends usually upon how much hair she has. The more hair a girl has, the more braids she can wear. Many women wear their braids long. In order to have long, thick, and beautiful braids, Uyghur girls learn to take great care of their hair.