前言 海浪自深水向海岸传播时,水深逐渐变浅,海浪传播的速度、波长、波高和波形也随之变化.当深度浅至一定程度时,通常发生不同形式的波浪破碎,形成水流涌上岸滩,继而流回水中.波破碎时,水质点水平速度增大,并伴有强烈的搅拌作用.因此,波破碎对水工建筑物的作用、泥沙搬运、环境保护、海区自净能力计算都是很重要的.在破碎波问题中,首先 Foreword When the wave spreads from the deepwater to the coast, the water depth becomes shallower, and the speed, wavelength, wave height and waveform of the wave propagation also change .When the depth is shallow to a certain extent, different forms of wave breaking usually occur, , And then flow back to the water.When the wave is broken, the horizontal speed of the water quality point increases, accompanied by a strong stirring effect.Therefore, the role of wave breaking on hydraulic structures, sediment handling, environmental protection, sea area self-cleaning capacity calculation Very important. In the broken wave problem, first of all